Finally, all of the undergarments and
accessories were in place, it was time to complete the outfit. First step was
to pin what was called a stomacher on
to the stays. A stomacher was a matching, decorative V or U shaped garment that
was needed to cover up the corset because the Robe a la Francais was basically
the shape of a jacket- it was open in the front. The stomacher also helped
create the illusion of a smaller waist by drawing attention to this area with
ribbons and bows. Now the actual gown was pinned on to the stomacher and draped
over the hip panniers. The gowns usually had sleeves that were “three-quarter”
length and ended in elaborate flounces at the elbows with lace and tulle. As
for fabrics, the most costly and impressive gowns were made out of expensive
imported silks or taffeta. At the time, there was a liking for Chinese, Indian,
and Arabic tastes in pattern and color choice because it was exotic. Gown colors
were usually pale pastels like yellow, pink, and powder blue with bright
colored accents and white or ivory lace. Patterns and prints on fabric were
just beginning to become popular, and the women of Rococo fully embraced them. Silk
material directly from China was woven and hand painted or completely
embroidered with arrays of vines, blossoms, and swirls if it was being created
for Western use. The accents were usually fashioned with brighter colored silk
thread or paint. For example, a light yellow silk gown may have had embroidery
done in vibrant red, green, or gold. Sometimes the gown had what was known as a
“sack back” which basically was extra fabric sewn into box pleats at the back
of the bodice that swept down to lay over the train. Overall, these beautiful
dresses were usually made with an abundance of material, and had pick-ups and
flounces that made them seem even fuller. They were bursting with delicate
bows, ribbon, lace, and braidwork and were the epitome of the sumptuousness of
Royal women.
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